A Visit to Mo'okini Heiau

Lest it be said by readers that I have overly romanticized Hawaiian history, I thought I would write about an interesting place that visitors to Hawai'i Island should make every effort to experience.

Despite the idyllic setting, life was not easy in ancient Hawai'i, especially for the maka'āinana, the commoners. They lived under a system of strict rules or kapu, mostly dealing with contact with the ali'i, the royalty who owned all land and were the rulers of the islands. The likely punishment for violation of any kapu was death. The life of maka'āinana and ali'i alike were guided by the religious beliefs of these times, which featured powerful gods requiring fearsome sacrifices. These forces were presided over by their human counterparts, the kahuna, the priests of the ancient religion.

On a recent trip back to Hawai'i, I visited Mo'okini Heiau, an ancient site upon which blood sacrifices were made. The site is impressive, featuring massive stone walls, some 30 feet high, all piled by human labor. It is also incredibly old, by some reckoning it was built around 425 AD. Interestingly, some historians and local authorities say that it was not originally the fearsome place it was to become. Upon an influx or invasion of later arrivals from other pacific islands, most likely Tahiti around 1000 AD, the temple was rededicated to a new god and became a site of human sacrifice.

The heiau sits on the remote northern tip of the island among dry, wind-whipped grasslands that give way to a rocky shoreline. Entering the heiau, one's attention is immediately drawn to a bowl-shaped stone slab, it is here that the sacrifice was prepared. Further on, forbidding stone walls surround on inner keep, the purpose of which can only be imagined, for the only living Hawaiians allowed within were the ali'i and the kahuna.

As I stood in this place, a very peculiar feeling came over me. Other visitors have reported all sorts of mysterious goings on, but I experienced nothing metaphysical. Instead, I felt intense loneliness and sorrow. Above all else, this place made me sad. I suppose I am guilty of romanticizing the history of this land, and Mo'okini Heiau is a stark reminder of the dark side of that history.

I will often speak of how I wish that the kingdom of Hawai'i could have been allowed to evolve naturally into a nation-state, equal to any other on earth. But do not mistake this romantic longing as a desire for her people to return to the old ways. Some things that have been lost should remain so.

E Ala E

Cry for the gods, cry for the people,

cry for the land that was taken away...

~ Israel Kamakawiwo'ole ~

I've been thinking a lot lately about Hawaiian Sovereignty. 

I recently read the text of Public Law 103-150, a formal declaration of the U.S. Congress, made in 1993, apologizing for the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. Although I have a rough understanding of the complex political history of the Hawaiian islands, I only recently learned for myself of this formal acknowledgement of the U.S. role in the overthrow. Although politicians and academics continue to debate the full accuracy of the conclusions written into this resolution, it provides a fascinating overview of the events of that time.

There is no disputing certain facts, however. Namely that in the first 100 years of contact with the outside world, the Hawaiians were dealt a series of near fatal blows, mostly at the hands of western powers including the United States with a supporting role played by various asian countries. First sailors, both merchant and military, exploited the islands as their personal shore-leave playground, spreading diseases, venereal and otherwise, and lawlessness. Then, Christian missionaries came to convert the population, and while these dedicated but often misguided men and women did good things, they also succeeded in suppressing the culture and customs of the people in the name of God. Meanwhile, western business interests, recognizing the unique resources of the islands, conspired to dominate them financially and succeeded in a land-grab of awesome proportions. As these events unfolded, leprosy began to ravage the islands, probably introduced by some sailor, or possibly from other immigrants, several years before.

How could any nation survive the simultaneous destruction of their populace from disease, the quashing of much of their culture, and the theft of so much of their land? Truly, the level of interference in the affairs of these people was overwhelming, even by the standards of the day.

Today, there are a number of Hawaiian sovereignty and self-determination movements of various forms. There is even legislation circulating in the U.S. government regarding the establishment of some form of native Hawaiian government. This legislation is known as the Native Hawaiian Government Reorganization Act of 2007. 

I can think of nothing more damaging to the restoration of Hawaii as an independent, sovereign nation than this bill. It would create a solely race-based tribal government similar to that which has been granted to native-American tribes. Does anyone really believe that the separate and unequal governments granted these tribes in any way compensates them for the genocide and theft of their homelands perpetrated by an aggressive, young United States? But despite this, there is no logical way that native-American tribes could be restored without the destruction of the United States as a national entity. Regardless of what crimes were committed, the deed is done, and we cannot go back.

But the situation is completely different in Hawai'i, and trying to force parallels between it and that of native-American tribes is damaging to the Hawaiian cause. A Hawaiian nation could be restored. Not some parallel, tribal system based on a model a 1,000 years and 2,000 miles removed, not on the often violent, religion-based kapu system of pre-1778 Hawaii, but on the vibrant, democratic, multi-cultural constitutional monarchy that Hawaii was evolving into prior to 1893.

I know the line of unifying Hawaiian kings starting with Kamehameha I would prefer to see the Hawaiian nation become a jewel in the Pacific, welcoming all who succumb to her unique charms. They would categorically reject the permanent sequestration of native-Hawaiians within the walls of a homeland dominated by a foreign power, yet this is precisely what the Native Hawaiian Government Reorganization Act would do. To any future Hawaiian citizens of any race I say, don't give up, and don't settle for racist legislation that side-steps the unique and complex heritage of this amazing land.

Coastal Access Rights

The incredible richness and beauty of the Hawaiian islands is as certain as the finite quantity of it. After all, there is only so much Hawai'i to go around, and it is no small wonder that many people of all economic means strongly desire a piece of this paradise. The history of land ownership in the islands is complex, and quite frankly, tragic. But that will be the topic of a future post.

Instead, let us consider something the contemporary Hawaiian state government has a good chance to get right: guaranteed coastal access for all residents of the islands. There are laws on the books to protect access rights, the legitimacy of these laws is reenforced by precedent. The Hawai'i Supreme court confirmed that all of Hawai'i's beaches are open to the public in 1995 in Public Access Shoreline Hawai'i (PASH) vs. Hawai'i County Planning Commission and again in 2006 in Diamond vs. Hawai'i. You would think this was a matter of settled law, but actual coastal access is always in danger, and vigilance by both residents and visitors alike is required to keep these rules in place.

I am ambivalent about the multi-million dollar homes going up in the coastal resorts of Hawai'i. On the one hand, these ostentatious displays of wealth are in stark contrast to the average incomes of normal island residents; while on the other, I would love to own one myself! Still, one can take comfort that they can't take the beach from us. I like to think the residents of these homes are welcome to their infinity pools, hot-tubs and breezy outdoor living rooms, so long as they don't mind me and my family frolicking in the waves in front of it all.

But there is a very delicate balance to all of this, and normal folks are at a disadvantage. The wealthy have more money to spend on lawyers and political contributions than we do, and when it comes to their private residences, it doesn't take much for them to whip out their wallets.

There are many loop holes resort owners, developers and private land-owners may take to restrict coastal access, while still appearing to obey state law. The most common is limiting parking. Most of the high-end resorts on Hawai'i island keep just a handful of parking spots available for local access, and you must go through a security gate and request a pass to get at them. Sure, you can walk in if you want, if you fancy a 30 minute trek over an unimproved lava trail. In some cases, even walking is problematic due to the ownership of the land you must walk over. I am happy that my resort, Waikoloa Beach Resort, is not one of these. Access to spectacular Anaeho'omalu Bay is free of any restrictions, and enjoys a massive public parking area in addition to being accessible via several important coastal hiking trails. But egregious examples not far away include the Hualalai and Mauna Kea resorts with no more than 20 - 25 public parking spots each.

Another often used method of restricting access is by invoking the issue of liability. Like any other place, Hawai'i has its share of bad apples. Beach parties can get wild, and incidents of drug use, fighting and even gun fire can occur. Land owners with properties adjacent to such places are understandably skittish and may use such incidents as an excuse to shut down access. It drives me crazy that local residents would hand so much potent ammunition to a land-owner. There are good laws that could be enforced in these cases, including criminal prosecution. Area closure should  never be the solution.

Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty.

~ 1852, Wendell Phillips 

The moral of the story is that the right of coastal access comes with responsibility. I can't speak for the locals, I hope they feel the same way, but I certainly can speak for visitors when I say, use your access rights, but follow the rules and, as always, show respect for this amazing land and its inhabitants.

Are you a Hawai'i resident who has been denied access to your own beaches? Let us know by commenting below.

Ka Mele Hawai'i (part two)

Hopefully my last post on this topic whet some appetites for a taste of some great Hawaiian contemporary music. In this post, we'll examine my top three 'must have' albums for those getting into Hawaiian music for the first time. I've chosen these CDs because I think they provide a solid, somewhat gentle introduction to modern island music. 

You may note that the release dates on these albums are a bit old, ranging from 1992 to 1999. This is not to say that terrific music isn't being made right now, rather I think of these artists as some of the godfathers of contemporary Hawaiian music. The styles represented provide the best introduction to the genre. These are just my opinions though, and the listener is encouraged to explore on their own.

Hapa

Hapa, 1992

Hapa means 'half' as in 'hapa haole' or 'half white'. This band consists of two members, one of whom is, you guessed it, not native Hawaiian.

I chose this album because it is an even mix of traditionally inspired Hawaiian song writing and instrumentals featuring excellent slack-key guitar. The vocals and playing on this album are magical, and will have you longing for a sunset stroll on a Hawaiian beach in no time. I particularly recommend the song Ka Uluwehi O Ke Kai, which features inspired guitars and a healthy dose of harmonica, an instrument not usually associated with Hawaiian music. If this song doesn't get your toes tapping and put a smile on your face, you may as well stop now, Hawaiian music is not for you.

Israel Kamakawiwo'ole

Facing Future, 1993

Although he was taken from us far too soon, Braddah Iz, as he is affectionately known in the islands, left us with a catalog of some of the most inspired music of all time, of any genre. His uplifting, sometimes melancholy voice coupled with his virtuoso ukulele playing combine to bring both the happiness and the sadness that is the Hawaiian experience straight into your living room.

Anyone vacationing in Hawaii should be required to listen to the song Hawaii '78.  This is one of the few songs I've ever listened to that actually moved me to tears. The (english-language) lyrics helped start me down the road to truly educating myself about the history, language, and culture of the people of Hawai'i.

Keali'i Reichel

Melelana, 1999

Keali'i is one of the true super-stars of the Hawaiian music scene. He sings both traditional Hawaiian songs, as well as many original compositions. I am fond of his habit of sprinkling a couple covers of classic english-language pop tunes into each album, but it is the Hawaiian language songs which really shine. He is also an accomplished chanter, and this album will familiarize you with that style as well.

The upbeat, Hawaiian-language Ipo Lei Momi provides a whimsical, fast paced story about a special kind of fisherman, with an R-rated subtext. But don't worry about the kids, unless they're already fluent in Hawaiian. The hauntingly beautiful Mauna Leo is a moving tribute to the mountain of the same name, located in his native Maui. My daughter taught herself the hula to this song by watching a concert DVD over and over until she had memorized every move.

So there you have it, the first three albums for what I hope will be your ever growing collection of some of the world's best music. Now get shopping! Aloha!

Of Golf and Hawai'i

I've been watching the Mercedes Benz Championship this weekend. I'm an obsessive fan of Golf, even though I only learned the game myself a few months ago. This particular tournament is played at the Plantation course at the Kapalua resort on Maui. The views on the TV have me longing to return to the islands. Our next trip, planned for April, seems so far away.

But as I think about the relationship between Hawai'i and Golf, I have some reservations. After the first westerners arrived in the islands, it took just a scant 200 years or so before most Hawaiian lands fell into the hands of non-Hawaiians. Depending upon your frame of reference, the presence of large resorts on the islands can be seen as a harsh reminder of this simple fact. Indeed, my own piece of paradise is situated square in the middle of large resort on Hawai'i island (referring to it as the "Big Island" is no longer the preferred convention). 

The Kapalua course on Maui is built upon plowed-under pineapple fields, whereas the courses at the Waikoloa Resort on Hawai'i are carved out of harsh lava desert. I feel a little better about this. The resorts of the Kohala Coast, which receive only 10 inches of rainfall per year, are fine examples of terra-forming. The barren rock is bulldozed, broken up and pulverized into rich volcanic soil. Irrigation moistens the soil and all manner of plants are brought in, most of which you would have to live on the east side of the island to see otherwise. Then the birds and animals come and you wind up with an complete ecosystem based entirely on the electronically controlled valves that open up at night, bringing life-giving water to an otherwise dry land. Of course, this brings other ethical considerations into play, namely that water is a scarce resource and pumping it up from an increasingly strained aquifer so as to create gardens in the desert may not be its best use. 

Still, I can think of worse uses of this land than golf courses. All of these courses embrace the natural topography, flora and fauna of the islands. My love of the game can't allow me to believe this is a bad thing. Indeed, the Hawaiian people have historically been both inclusive and welcoming both to foreigners and to new ideas. I'm sure the kings of old would not be entirely pleased with some of the sites on which these courses sit today, but I'm guessing they would have built a few somewhere. After all, these smart people would have recognized that, unlike almost any other sport, Golf is characterized by lot of aloha for the 'aina. I like to think this is something golfers and Hawaiians have in common.

I suppose that the message in all of this is that nothing about Hawai'i is as simple as it seems from the lobby of your hotel or the lanai of your condo. The land, the people, and the relationship between both and the outsiders that have shaped these islands since the 18th century are complex and worthy of our consideration.

Ka Mele Hawai'i (part one)

Hawai'i has produced some pretty amazing artists over the years. Whether it be singers, dancers, chanters, musicians, painters or woodworkers, artistic talent runs deep through the people of the islands. Though the Hawaiian people themselves exhibit a very high ratio of talented artists, even those not of Hawaiian ancestry who are life-long residents of the islands are represented in this group. Perhaps the intense beauty of the place provides extra inspiration.

I am particularly fond of Hawaiian music, both contemporary and traditional. It is not unusual that the early Hawaiians embraced and extended musical styles from outside their world, as they were already accomplished dancers and chanters with rich traditions even before the arrival of westerners and asians. Early Hawaiians adopted new musical styles with the same gusto that they learned to read and write. Hawaiian royalty were not only frequently the subject of song and dance, but many wrote their own music as well, including some of the most enduring Hawaiian songs. Queen Liliuokalani, the last queen before the Hawaiian monarchy was overthrown, was a prolific song writer. Her work includes one of the best known traditional compositions, Aloha 'Oe.

Many traditional compositions are tributes to particular places in the islands. In fact the very title of this blog was inspired in part by the chorus from Pupu  A O 'Ewa a traditional song written by an unknown composer commemorating 'Ewa on the island of O'ahu. 

Many inspired English language original works as well as renditions of standards have been performed by Hawaiian artists, but I certainly prefer those featuring the Hawaiian language. The beauty of the language itself becomes part of the experience. Even if you don't understand the words, you can feel the emotion of the singer. Spending a little time learning a few words and occasionally picking up an English-Hawaiian dictionary for certain words or phrases further enhances the enjoyment.

Chants & Dance

This is the purest form of Hawaiian music, Chanting or hula performed to beats played on various instruments of wood or dried gourd is the original music of the islands, reflecting a time before the influence of westerners and asians.

Falsetto Singing 

Known in the islands as leo ki'eki'e, this is a frequently heard vocal style. I must admit that this style may be the least accessible to the ear unaccustomed to Hawaiian music. It has taken me quite some time to develop a taste for it.

Guitar

The guitar appeared on the Islands from numerous sources, sailors, missionaries, and other visitors. In particular Portuguese immigrants of the 19th century brought with them the cavaquinho, a small guitar-like instrument that evolved into the uniquely Hawaiian version called the ukulele.

Early Hawaiian musicians also created their own musical styles using the traditional guitar. Slack-key guitar, wherein a classically tuned guitar is de-tuned by loosening one or more strings, as well as steel guitar, which is played using a metal slide across the fret board, instead of the fingers.

Traditional

These songs couple the guitar innovations discussed above with Hawaiian language lyrics. The song titles mentioned previously (Pupu A O 'Ewa and Aloha 'Oe) are fine examples.

Contemporary

Contemporary Hawaiian music takes its influence from many sources, including traditional Hawaiian, Country, and Reggae (a genre sometimes referred to as Jawaiian).

Modern Hawaiian artists are super stars in the islands, but relatively unknown on the mainland. I am confounded by this. I find it indicative of a singular hubris on the part of the mainland record labels and radio stations. Perhaps they don't feel that listeners raised on hip-hop and pop-rock could appreciate the guitar and ukulele driven melodies and emotional Hawaiian language lyrics. 

In part two of this series, we'll explore a few of the most accessible contemporary Hawaiian artists, perfect listening for those wanting an easy introduction to ka mele Hawai'i.

The Mai Tai Revisited

At the Waikoloa site, I've previously mentioned my love for the Mai Tai. In that article I discuss my favorite tropical variation, while only giving historical reference to the classic Trader Vic recipe originally concocted way back in 1944.

Just for historical background, Trader Vic was looking for a delicious way to serve some excellent Jamaican rum to a pair of guests from Tahiti. The rum was good all on its own, so he didn't want to overpower it with lots of ingredients. He mixed it with some lime juice, orange curacao, rock candy syrup and a dash of french orgeat (an almond syrup). After one sip his guests exclaimed, "Maita'i roa!". In Tahitian this means "Out of This World - The Best". The Mai Tai was born!

Recently I came across a recipe by a writer for the San Francisco Chronicle named Gary Regan. He was trying to reproduce the $1,500 Mai Tai served in the bar at the Merchant Hotel in Belfast Ireland. The drink is pricey due to the fact that it is made with rum from what may be the world's last bottle of the same rum Trader Vic used in the original.

The reproduction uses a pair of widely available, high quality rums to approximate the original, and Grand Marnier instead of Curacao to eliminate the need for the rock candy syrup.

Ingredients

1 1/2 ounces 10 Cane rum

1/2 ounce J. Wray & Nephew overproof rum

1/2 ounce Grand Marnier

3/4 ounce orgeat syrup

1/2 ounce fresh lime juice

1 mint sprig for garnish

Preparation

Fill a cocktail shaker two-thirds full of ice and add both rums, Grand Marnier, orgeat syrup, and lime juice. Shake for approximately 15 seconds, strain into a crushed-ice-filled old-fashioned glass, and add the garnish.

So now when you're in the mood for the original Mai Tai, you know what to do.

Ka 'Ōlelo Hawai'i

I am not a linguist, nor am I trained in anthropology, but it seems to me that language must be one of the key windows in the soul of a people. If this is the case, then the traveler to Hawai'i is in luck, because the Hawaiian language is possibly the most accessible (to westerners) of the Pacific Islander languages. The language is beautiful to listen to and upon first exposure seems relatively simple in structure, yet it is an amazingly expressive language, capable of complexity and nuance.

As a visitor to Hawai'i, you may not be too concerned with the Hawaiian language. After all, it is a U.S. state, right? I'd like to convince you to reconsider that answer. Sure, Hawai'i is a state, and as such, English is the official language. I'll post my thoughts on that in the future, but for now, just keep in mind that the Hawaiian people predate the U.S. by at least a thousand years, during which time, they spoke Hawaiian. Thanks to myriad cultural programs, the language is enjoying a resurgence.

Understanding basic pronunciation is a great idea for the traveler to Hawai'i. Not only is it fun, but you'll seem like less of a dweeb when trying to say Hawaiian place names. Most mainlanders feel pretty comfortable pronouncing mainland place names, even ones with Spanish influence, like San Francisco, or native American influence, like Dakota. But when you visit Hawai'i, you'll discover that Hawaiian places have, well... Hawaiian names.

Written Hawaiian

Prior to the arrival of New England Christian missionaries in 1820, the Hawaiian language had no written form. The missionaries, in their zeal to teach reading and writing (so their new converts could read scripture, no doubt), were first to create a written form of the language. They used the alphabet they knew best, the 26 characters of the modern latin alphabet.

The missionaries were not linguists, and many historians now say they made some errors in creating written Hawaiian, most notably in dropping some consonants, the sounds of which they couldn't differentiate when listening to spoken Hawaiian. The Hawaiian people then, as now, were avid learners, and valued literacy greatly. Most learned to read and write, and for better or worse, the missionaries version of the language became what most now consider the Hawaiian language.

Basic Pronunciation

Regardless of what mistakes may have been made all those years ago, one benefit of that work is that today, persons learning Hawaiian for the first time have some good basic rules we can follow, especially when reading street and highway signs on the roads of the islands today.

Vowels

As luck would have it, Hawaiian has the same vowels that western languages have. Hawaiian vowels are always pronounced, there are no silent vowels, though it may seem that way at times because the vowel sounds may be so close together. Unlike in English, Hawaiian vowels always make one sound:

• a - pronounced like 'ah' as in ha.  
  
• e - pronounced like 'ay' as in  neighbor.
  
• i - pronounced like 'ee' as in petite or neat.
  
• o - pronounced like 'oh' as in crow.
  
• u - pronounced like 'oo' as in juice or cool.
  

Try it! Say Mauna Kea - it should sound something like "mah-oo-nah kay-ah" (but run the vowel sounds together quickly as you speak them). 

If you listen carefully to native speakers, you'll see that two vowels together are usually pronounced together so quickly that they make what seems like a single sound. In most cases, the two sounds are just run together quickly, but are still present. 

Consider the town named Kawaihae, following our rules we might exaggerate the pronunciation as "Kah-wah-ee-hah-ay" but practice running the ai and the ae sounds together until you almost (but not quite) hear "Kah-weye-heye".

The 'Okina

Linguists refer to this as a glottal stop. The symbol looks like an apostrophe appearing before a vowel and indicates that you should quickly stop the previous sound so that the following vowel sounds distinct. Say "Uh oh", that stop between the uh and the oh is the 'okina.

The Kahakō

This symbol appears above a vowel and indicates the sound should be drawn out as if two of the same vowel had been written together.

Consonants

There are 7 consonants in the Hawaiian language: H, K, L, M, N, P, and W. Each is pronounced as in english, save for W, which is often pronounced like V.

Putting it Together

Now that you are armed with the basics, try those Hawaiian Island names again. I bet you'll be surprised at how pervasive the mispronunciation of these has become on the mainland, rarely have I heard anyone pronounce them correctly. Remember the pronunciation guides below are a bit exaggerated, when two vowels are together speak them quickly, running the sounds together, and don't forget the 'okina (shown as *).

• Ni'ihau - Nee * ee-hah-oo
  
• Kaua'i - Kah-00-ah * ee
  
• O'ahu - Oh * ah-hoo
  
• Moloka'i - Moh-loh-kah * ee
  
• Lana'i - Lah-nah * ee
  
• Kaho'olawe - Kah-hoh * oh-lah-vay
  
• Maui - Mah-oo-ee
  
• Hawai'i - Hah-vah-ee * ee
  

To continue deeper into the fascinating language of the Islands, I recommend the following great books on the subject:

• Learning Hawaiian at Home
  
• Hawaiian Dictionary

Hō'ihi i Ka 'Āina

Respect the land. The Hawaiian people, both ancient and contemporary, revere the beauty and bounty of the land. Songs and poems and dances are filled with both wonder and respect for this amazing land. 

In order to appreciate the Hawaiian Islands fully, one needs to understand how truly unique they are, just from a geological perspective alone. They stand virtually alone in the Pacific some 2000 miles from the U.S. mainland. The islands, numbering in the hundreds, spread over around 1,500 miles.

Of course the eight main islands are the best known and comprise what most mainland residents think of as "Hawai'i". These are Ni'ihau, Kaua'i, O'ahu, Moloka'i, Lana'i, Kaho'olawe, Maui, and Hawai'i.

The Hawaiian islands were formed as the continental plate upon which they sit drifts over a "hot spot" in the earths crust. Molten magma rises up through the crust and forms volcanoes. These volcanoes erupt slowly and continuously, over many thousands of years, adding layer upon layer of cooled lava until finally, an island emerges from the sea. The process of island formation continues to this day, with volcanic flows on Hawai'i Island producing from 300,000 to 600,000 cubic meters of new land a day! Even now a new undersea volcano located off the southern tip of Hawai'i Island, named Lo'ihi, is busy forming the next island in the Hawaiian chain.

Take a moment to ponder this while visiting: You are standing upon one of the most remote and geographically isolated places on earth. It's hard to conceive of while sipping a Mai Tai in the hotel bar, surrounded my so much "civilization". Here there are species of plants, birds and fish found nowhere else in the world. Hawai'i is every bit of the evolutionary playground that Darwin's Galapagos are, with the added benefit of being accessible to regular folks like you and me. 

As a visitor, I urge you to take the time to understand a bit of how Hawaiians feel about the land. Hawaii should never be treated as a tropical "backyard" in which mainlanders play. It is a vibrant and totally unique place filled with wonders to enjoy and explore. It is no wonder that so many places in the islands are considered sacred to the Hawaiian people, but you will never see these if you never leave the beach at your resort. Get out and experience the 'āina for yourself, but please, show respect while you do.

Prologue

A little over a year ago, our family purchased a small vacation condominium on the Kohala coast of the island of  Hawai'i. Our family of four simply fell in love with the place during a vacation. I was particularly hard-hit. I simply couldn't imagine not returning over and over for the remainder of my life. I've since met others who have had the same experience. Many simply moved there, and never looked back. This is not an option for us right now, so we visit as often as our bank-account will allow.

Though we are not of Hawaiian ancestry, my wife grew up on O'ahu and I myself spent my high school years living on Guam, so the Pacific Island thing runs strong through both of us. My own love of the Hawaiian Islands started when my parents lived on O'ahu for a time in my early twenties. It's hard to believe it took over twenty years for me to rediscover this incredibly beautiful land.

We are not wealthy and maintaining this property is a stretch for us. To offset the cost, we rent our place to well-qualified vacationers when we aren't using it. This blog grew out of the web site we created for this purpose WaikoloaBeachRental.com.

The Hawaiian language is certainly one of the most fascinating languages I've ever been exposed to. It is perhaps one of the most pleasant sounding languages ever to have evolved, lending itself naturally to poetry and music. It is at once simple, yet amazingly expressive and capable of layers and nuance. The history of the Hawaiian language is equally interesting and will be the topic of many of my posts.

The title of this blog means "the news" and the subtitle, "listen, people, to the news of the land". Since this blog is an extension of our web site for past and future guests of our vacation rental, the "news" to which I refer will be not be earth-shaking revelations and insider details on the goings on in the islands, I am not connected enough to provide such information. Instead, I'll focus on the people, places, and culture from an outsiders point of view.

In the process of visiting the island, and in helping others to do so, I've had so many thoughts and impressions that they would surely overflow the space available on the Waikoloa Beach site, so I will put them here. I hope that the traveler interested in making a deeper connection to Hawai'i will find this type of "news" helpful and entertaining.